DAYS LIKE THIS
We never expected to get yet another amazing day of waves. Days like this usually come farther apart, so this truly felt like a gift.
When I heard FOUR FEET AT FOURTEEN SECONDS, I was done with sleeping for the night. I got up at 4:30am and stayed up, getting everything done to maximize every second of water time. Walking and feeding the dog, getting the house tidied up for the owner's return this afternoon... and out the door and back to my place to grab my board and it was off to the inlet.
DANG, if the barricades weren't up blocking the parking lot. I saw Bob's car in there, the lawbreaker, and thought I would break some, too. Turns out Bob would have better luck.
As I walked over the walkway, a sight greeted me that caused me to break into a run. I didn't care if I got a ticket for crossing the line and crawling under the wood blockades on the boardwalk. THIS would be worth anything. Perfectly groomed lines were marching in, the wind PERFECT, the swell still holding. Look at that bowl! I mean it was that good-looking, like dreams I have had many times before. It looked like only four guys out, and I was hoping it was the same crew.
I was frantic to get out there...
Once out, Bob just looked at me and grinned like he was insane. Can you believe this?
Then it was just wave after silly perfect wave, Bob, Chris, and two young guys, one of them smiling and talking to me like he knew me and then a dolphin suddenly jumped right out of the water in front of me! Holy crap, it this real? I just watched so many waves bowl up and pitch and peel today it just blew my mind. We all shared the bounty, and it was good. Andy came out, and Pat, and a couple other guys, but if you were in the spot the wave was all yours. The shape of the things was machine perfect, maybe not as big as yesterday, but for quality I would say it had to be one of the best days in months. The sky was perfectly clear and for two solid hours and with a prefect tide (just before high, thank you!) we enjoyed another free surf trip. It didn't matter that when I came in I was blocked by the work on the boardwalk and had to walk/run way up the beach and then back down the road to get back to my car, while Bob stayed out an hour longer and just walked up and out because the construction workers had mysteriously left. It didn't matter that I had to deal with two sick babies all day who sneezed on me and coughed and whined all day without taking their naps. By the end, when the sky clouded over and the tide backed out and it was all over, it felt nothing short of a miracle. It was a bittersweet day, thinking about those beautiful waves that rolled my way, while remembering that it was fourteen years to the day that I lost my best friend, my mom.
When I heard FOUR FEET AT FOURTEEN SECONDS, I was done with sleeping for the night. I got up at 4:30am and stayed up, getting everything done to maximize every second of water time. Walking and feeding the dog, getting the house tidied up for the owner's return this afternoon... and out the door and back to my place to grab my board and it was off to the inlet.
DANG, if the barricades weren't up blocking the parking lot. I saw Bob's car in there, the lawbreaker, and thought I would break some, too. Turns out Bob would have better luck.
As I walked over the walkway, a sight greeted me that caused me to break into a run. I didn't care if I got a ticket for crossing the line and crawling under the wood blockades on the boardwalk. THIS would be worth anything. Perfectly groomed lines were marching in, the wind PERFECT, the swell still holding. Look at that bowl! I mean it was that good-looking, like dreams I have had many times before. It looked like only four guys out, and I was hoping it was the same crew.
I was frantic to get out there...
Once out, Bob just looked at me and grinned like he was insane. Can you believe this?
Then it was just wave after silly perfect wave, Bob, Chris, and two young guys, one of them smiling and talking to me like he knew me and then a dolphin suddenly jumped right out of the water in front of me! Holy crap, it this real? I just watched so many waves bowl up and pitch and peel today it just blew my mind. We all shared the bounty, and it was good. Andy came out, and Pat, and a couple other guys, but if you were in the spot the wave was all yours. The shape of the things was machine perfect, maybe not as big as yesterday, but for quality I would say it had to be one of the best days in months. The sky was perfectly clear and for two solid hours and with a prefect tide (just before high, thank you!) we enjoyed another free surf trip. It didn't matter that when I came in I was blocked by the work on the boardwalk and had to walk/run way up the beach and then back down the road to get back to my car, while Bob stayed out an hour longer and just walked up and out because the construction workers had mysteriously left. It didn't matter that I had to deal with two sick babies all day who sneezed on me and coughed and whined all day without taking their naps. By the end, when the sky clouded over and the tide backed out and it was all over, it felt nothing short of a miracle. It was a bittersweet day, thinking about those beautiful waves that rolled my way, while remembering that it was fourteen years to the day that I lost my best friend, my mom.
TENTH STREET WINS AGAIN
I should have just been going there in the first place. This was the most fun I have had all week. I looked at the pier early, and for some reason... it seemed to have more potential than any day of this week so far.
It made no sense. The buoys were trending downward, it was mid-tide and receding. What the heck? The lines looked chest high again, clean, and more bowly than the last two mornings.
The pier looked to be backing off on both sides and I knew the dredge would be a huge chance, so what about Tenth?
As soon as I got there, I could see Chris giving his fitness class on the beach to about five students. He waved hello and asked if I had been surfing this week. Had he found a decent sandbar, I asked. Not really. But, he said, you could find some pretty fun ones here I bet. We both looked out at the relatively lumpy sets trundling in. That left over there looks actually thumpy! I ran off for my board.
There was only one other person out, a guy on a bodyboard. Once I was out there, I realized it might actually be breaking. That's when I got my best wave of the week. I had a couple rights at the start that were actually decent, but this one, whoa. It bowled up bigger than the rest, steep, hollow, and fast, and I just edged right into the pit as it threw over me. The Dominator just slid right into the perfect spot under that lip and I hung on, hooting all the way inside. WHAT WAS THAT?
A few minutes after that, I looked over and saw Roddy. He waved and smiled and said, "I saw you get some good ones and said: It's GO time!" Whoa, thanks, you just made my day! We shared the bowling peaks for an hour with no one out. Then out paddled Aslyn, and she was babbling with excitement and scratching for every wave she could. A dolphin joined us and she got even more animated and that made me smile. By the time the tide bottomed out, it was getting a bit more rippled, although the wind stayed light northwest the entire time. Unexpected, and so appreciated, yes! And, the water temperature bounced back up. Mark had called while I was in the water, so I called him with a report. We plan on meeting there in the morning. Please, let us have this again...
It made no sense. The buoys were trending downward, it was mid-tide and receding. What the heck? The lines looked chest high again, clean, and more bowly than the last two mornings.
The pier looked to be backing off on both sides and I knew the dredge would be a huge chance, so what about Tenth?
As soon as I got there, I could see Chris giving his fitness class on the beach to about five students. He waved hello and asked if I had been surfing this week. Had he found a decent sandbar, I asked. Not really. But, he said, you could find some pretty fun ones here I bet. We both looked out at the relatively lumpy sets trundling in. That left over there looks actually thumpy! I ran off for my board.
There was only one other person out, a guy on a bodyboard. Once I was out there, I realized it might actually be breaking. That's when I got my best wave of the week. I had a couple rights at the start that were actually decent, but this one, whoa. It bowled up bigger than the rest, steep, hollow, and fast, and I just edged right into the pit as it threw over me. The Dominator just slid right into the perfect spot under that lip and I hung on, hooting all the way inside. WHAT WAS THAT?
A few minutes after that, I looked over and saw Roddy. He waved and smiled and said, "I saw you get some good ones and said: It's GO time!" Whoa, thanks, you just made my day! We shared the bowling peaks for an hour with no one out. Then out paddled Aslyn, and she was babbling with excitement and scratching for every wave she could. A dolphin joined us and she got even more animated and that made me smile. By the time the tide bottomed out, it was getting a bit more rippled, although the wind stayed light northwest the entire time. Unexpected, and so appreciated, yes! And, the water temperature bounced back up. Mark had called while I was in the water, so I called him with a report. We plan on meeting there in the morning. Please, let us have this again...
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